December 7th, Day of the Devil
In the USA we have burning man, a crazy party which takes place every year in the middle of the Nevada Black Rock Desert where thousands of people watch a large wooden figure burn. On a smaller scale, and maybe with a few less drugs, the Guatemalans celebrate burning a wood devil on their own Dia de Diablo. According to locals, the tradition of burning the devil started in colonial times when settlers were not able to decorate their houses for the Christmas holiday season which began with the eve of the immaculate conception around December 7th. Because they were not able to decorate their homes for the holiday, settlers took trash and extra wood to make small bonfires in front of their homes. It was thought that the burning of these small bonfires would purify the homes of the settlers for the holiday season. At some point those celebrating started burning figures of the devil in these bonfires and over the years the celebration evolved to what it is today. The fiesta I saw began with a two hour parade through a village in the suburbs of Antigua. There were dozens of floats loaded mostly with kids dressed up as devils, angels or cowboys and señoritas. Most of these floats seemed to be telling the story of the settlers burning the devils or of the immaculate conception. I only saw one which was somewhat Christmas like with a nativity scene. Some had snow white and seven dwarves and I saw one with smurfs!
Burning the Devil
In the evening the crowds gathered. I’d estimate maybe a thousand or possibly two thousand were gathered in north-east Antigua where a wood devil figure was burned. The streets in the area were lined with vendors selling food or various party type trinkets (lights, whistled and noise makers). There was a stage with music and performances. I kept thinking of comparisons with burning man in Nevada, but although there are similarities, they are definitely two different types of events with a similar theme. What better excuse to party and celebrate than to burn the devil?
